A common problem new paddlers have is a lack of upper body strength. Teaching basic skills I often come across people in my classes who need a solid self-rescue but are unable to execute a paddle-float outrigger reentry because they can’t lunge from the water onto the back deck of their kayak. After a good season of paddling most will develop this strength, but as beginners, when they really need it, students need an alternative.
Traditionally, the solution to this situation is to use a sling. Although a sling provides a step, relieving the victim of a need for the upper body’s strength, deploying a sling takes extra time and creates the hazard of getting tangled upon reentry. Slings, if not used correctly, are also notorious for breaking paddles, leaving the victim up a creek. As an alternative, my students and I worked out a modification of the paddle-float rescue using a heel hook technique more commonly used in assisted rescues.
Although this hybrid rescue is not the be-all and end-all, it is fast and more efficient than a sling. For many of my students it has proven a reliable solution without creating the potential entanglement issues or paddle breakage associated with slings. Because this method puts more weight on the paddle-float outrigger, it is best suited to inflatable paddle floats. Foam floats may not have enough buoyancy to be effective. For students who weigh over 230 pounds, I’ve found it necessary to inflate both sides of a double-chambered paddle float.
As you do with the usual paddle-float rescue, leave the kayak upside down after your wet exit and hold on to it by putting both feet in the cockpit. While floating on your back, attach the float to the paddle and inflate it.
Roll your kayak upright and insert the paddle blade opposite the float under the deck lines behind the cockpit. Be sure the blade is firmly held under the lines on both sides of the deck and that the paddle shaft is at a 90-degree angle to the kayak.
Place yourself in front of the paddle shaft chest up, and hook your elbows over the shaft behind you. With the hand that’s over the deck, grip the shaft and closest attachment point. While you’re in this stable position next to the cockpit you can keep your torso out of the water and give yourself a chance to regain composure and think.
Kick both feet to the surface until they’re pointing toward the bow. Place your outside leg into the cockpit. Reach across with your outside hand and grab the back deck lines or cockpit coaming. Stretch your cockpit leg and body as straight as possible and roll yourself chest down onto the deck. Keeping stretched out will keep your weight low and let your powerful torso and thigh muscles do most of the work of getting you on deck.
Focus on the float and keep the majority of your weight on the outrigger side of the kayak as you rotate into the seat to your paddling position.
Depending on how it is attached and how far back the paddle float is, either pump out with the float still attached and then recover the paddle, or recover the paddle first and position the shaft under the bottom of your PFD so you can pump out while leaning your body weight on the float. When you are ready to paddle, remove the paddle float, deflate and stow it.
Variations and Adjustments
This method relies upon your kayak’s deck lines so you need to make sure that they are in good shape—neither frayed nor weathered. Every boat seems to have a different configuration of lines and bungees, requiring each paddler to make slight modifications on how they insert and recover the paddle.
Although we have attempted to modify the technique to work without using deck lines, gripping the shaft against the coaming with this body position takes a great deal of hand strength and actually locates the victim too close to the cockpit, making it difficult to insert the outer leg and extend the leg and body into position.
In my years as an instructor I’ve strived to help students achieve self-reliance. This method may not be for everyone but it has helped many get closer to that goal.